Geographically, this place is stunning. Jagged tiers of rock towering above the wide Nam Song river, which is edged on one side with paddy fields. It is that perfect glossy image of Laos for the travel magazines and books. A few more pictures below.

And our activities for the day… A gentle trek at low levels through caves and stunning ravines (see the tree hanging from the rock edge, breathtaking). Then a swift long boat ride with the highlight of seeing pink buffalos. Yes! Is this even possible?

It was a really fun day here, but now it’s time to face reality.

Imagine Windermere Lake, and now picture installing 20 six-storey concrete hotels on the east shore of the lake. It might seem acceptable because, as long as nothing is built on the west shore, views of Scafell Pike will stay unobstructed. Oh, but we’ve had a change of heart—you’re now allowed to build on the West shore too, and if you wish, these can be six-storey concrete buildings as well. Slash and burn the surrounding countryside. Plastic bottles and bags drift on the lake and litter the trees. You get the picture?

At one point in the past, Vang Vieng was a backpacker paradise with boozy youngsters doing’ Asia. Travelling ‘the circuit’: Thailand, through Laos and on to Vietnam. In an effort to ‘tidy’ this up, the Government switched to an adventure playground vibe: zip lines, canoeing, climbing, caving, tubing, biking. Bringing hotels and better transport links. Yet, something doesn’t feel right to me here. Those eco-touristy types that I know wouldn’t like this.

Laos may live to regret what they have allowed here. I say bring back the backpackers!