It is a horrible irony that the word Lemur derives from the Latin word lemures, which means ghosts. Because this is exactly what they are soon to be. I, like so many people, are concerned about conservation, but until I came here, to see things with my own eyes (and some concentrated reading), did I…

Spot the animal in the picture.

This is how the Malagasy people describe the Chameleon,with its amazing ability to independently pivot its bulging eyes in two separate directions. We all know that Chameleons can change their skin colour, but this is more of a reflection of its emotions, rather than its surroundings as is commonly viewed. If it feels threatened, angry…

The Route Nacionale 2 runs 345km kilometres west to east from the Madagascar capital Anatanarivo to the major port town Toamasina. Everything going in and out of the country goes along this road. I thought the RN6, heading north, was a lousy road, but this has nothing on the RN2. The RN6 is a dirt…

The next stop north was the Montagne d’ Amber National Park, so named after the amber sap seeping from the Copal trees in the park. A park of 182km2 and contrasting with Ankarana as truer rainforest. Massive trees reaching 120 feet/40m, giant sized ferns, palms the size of houses, and an abundance of orchids. The…

It’s really hard to imagine, when you are on Route Nacionale 6 in Madagascar, that on the other side of the world there are advanced projects, preparing to get human beings on to the surface of Planet Mars. At the end of this day, we would visit our own version of Mars, Madagascar style, but…

A guide can make or break your experience. Not only should they know their ‘stuff’ but its also about how they deliver that ‘stuff’. Good English for me, of course, is a pre requisite, but too much information I will glaze over, too little leaves me wondering if I wouldn’t know more by reading Google.…

This was 130 kilometres of straight track/road/potholes that took 4 hours to drive. Made as comfortable as possible by Nassir the driver of the 4 x 4 Nissan and the chatter of the guide, Frank. Either side of the track, more dirt than asphalt, was village after village of stilted wooden huts. As usual shirtless…

I love the words “Banyan Tree”. For me they conjure the image of luxury, service and tranquillity of the Far Eastern hotel chain, but also the warm spirituality of Buddhism. Banyan Trees though are actually Indian in origin and so a symbol of Hinduism and for them, eternal life. They are actually fig trees, part…