Today, I visited Nosy Iranja. Considered to be one of the most important nesting sites for Green Turtles and Hawksbill Turtles in the Western Indian Ocean.

Maybe it is here that I will meet a guide, or someone who can update me on : turtle nesting, habitats and the health of the species in this region.

Nosy Iranja, located 48km from Nosy Be, is infact two islands. The larger Nosy Iranja Be is home to a village community of 200 people, and linked to the smaller Nosy Iranja Kelly ( seen main picture) by a 1.2km sandbar.

The sand is pure, pure white and the sea and sky combine to give you a palette of every shade of blue and turquoise. It is jaw droppingly beautiful.

The last research I could find on this, ‘protected marine reserve’ (named thus by Lonely Planet, I could not find this official status from the Madagascar Government) was in 2006. It summarised a 3 1/2 year period between Aug 2000 and Dec 2004 when a hotel was being built on the smaller island and the hotel chain and the WWF worked together to survey the site, and minimise the environmental damage.

The summary was that during that period 345 Green Turtles nested on Iranja Kelly and 76 Hawksbill Turtles. Not many. Such small numbers of Hawksbills Turtles, and yet announced as the,’ most important site for Hawksbills in the Mozambique Channel’

Although, there is no data pre 2000 for comparison, the report identified a slightly negative effect on the eastern beaches as a result of light pollution from the new hotel, but positive news on the southern beach where they surmised that the presence of people in the area deterred the poachers.

In 2006 – after the report was published – dead turtles shells (carapace) were seen. Indicating that animals are still being killed for their meat.

Interestingly, the hotel is now closed, after varying reviews, and I have read many a comment about the whole scheme being a corruption racket.

” We want to build a 24 bungalow hotel on this island, but there will be no environmental damage nor impact on the nesting turtles”….I think a 5 year old would question the legitimacy of such claims in the promotional pamphlet.

Just to put this all in to context. I attach here an ariel shot ( not mine) of Iranja Kelly beautifully placed top right of shot. We couldn’t protect this small bit of land (130 square metres!) from human development to give the nesting turtles a chance?

So how was my trip?

20 of us ( pretty much all French speaking, a lovely warm family from Reunion, 3 people from Shenzhen P.R.C and me) set off at 9am, in a swanky boat with the biggest twin outboard engines I have ever seen. A thrilling ride that took us 1 1/2 hours to cover the watery distance.

On arrival we were left to our own devices. I walked to the highest point on the island to take the main picture here. Spent 30 minutes snorkelling across a sandy bay, and then a long hot walk along the sandbar to the smaller island. A strange experience. One step forward, one sinking step. One step forward, one sinking step. Showing that the sand was only just nudging above the sea and a good idea to watch the incoming tide.

I also had my best food in Madagascar so far. After a pasta salad starter, it was tangy spicy crab claws, followed by creamy langoustine and then beautifully moist barracuda. When the French are around, I suppose the food has to be good. I had hoped for a nice complimentary crisp Sancerre, but instead still water, but cooled over a big slab of ice in a cool box.

It was a good day out. We were pretty low impact visitors ( boat speed dropped considerably 1km out) and foreign currency is lavished on the boatmen and the villagers, who cooked for us.

But no talk, nor signs of , turtles, nesting potentially 1.5km away. I have now been in Madagascar for 16 days and I am still to meet someone with knowledge or interest in turtles.

A missed opportunity?

Why not restrict visitor numbers, put in place big park fees, cut access totally to the small island, but afford the turtles proper protection. Bring in volunteers to cover this.

Sign me up. I’m here, and eager to work!

Nosy Iranja trip was organised for me by Ricardo. Contactable through WhatsApp 00 261 3260 777 89.