This was 130 kilometres of straight track/road/potholes that took 4 hours to drive. Made as comfortable as possible by Nassir the driver of the 4 x 4 Nissan and the chatter of the guide, Frank. Either side of the track, more dirt than asphalt, was village after village of stilted wooden huts. As usual shirtless…

I love the words “Banyan Tree”. For me they conjure the image of luxury, service and tranquillity of the Far Eastern hotel chain, but also the warm spirituality of Buddhism. Banyan Trees though are actually Indian in origin and so a symbol of Hinduism and for them, eternal life. They are actually fig trees, part…

A trip to Nosy Sakatia was promoted in the tourist blurb as a, ‘chance to swim with giant sea turtles’. Okay, and maybe my last chance. After coming all this way, one more shot at the dream. I recruited my new Mr Fix It, Ricardo , to organise a bespoke trip. I wanted simple (…

Today, I visited Nosy Iranja. Considered to be one of the most important nesting sites for Green Turtles and Hawksbill Turtles in the Western Indian Ocean. Maybe it is here that I will meet a guide, or someone who can update me on : turtle nesting, habitats and the health of the species in this…

A friend of mine once said that the trouble when you get older is that, “ no one sees you anymore”. This was rich coming from a very tall woman with really strong body language and warm expressive eyes. Being visible, or should I say invisible, reaches new heights here. I commented the other day…

So it was Day 3 of my time on Nosy Komba. I am on the beach on my own. I step in to that beautiful warm water of the Indian Ocean, strap on my snorkel and swim – finless- to a position about 30 metres from the shore, and there he was. My first Green…

International Women’s Day often catches me by surprise, when I receive kind messages of solidarity from both male and female friends, but after today the date of 8th of March will be etched in to my memory, as the day I was in Madagascar and learnt how the day really should be celebrated. I can’t…

I can’t account for my trepidation here, but I am two days in, and I’m nowhere near to seeing turtles. In part this is because I haven’t made it yet to the reef encircling the island and tantalisingly close to the shore. I am reminded of a time in Switzerland when I first skied. I…

In Malagasy ‘Mora Mora’ is, ‘ slow down chill out, relax, don’t expect anything to happen on time’. So first day orientation starts at 7.30am…. okay… started at 8ish … Boris, is the smiley energetic Malagasy man managing the camp. The one donning a bright red zippy Manchester United tracksuit top, even though he claims…