My third week here was left open and unplanned. Ready to take up suggestions from the locals, other travellers or insights from my own reading ‘on the ground’.

So here I am, Monday morning 5.35am ( still on gibbon o’clock time), back in Luang Prabang, lying in a proper bed in a room with AC and civilisation just a few steps away.

My dreams for today are thus and in no particular order. To have a massage, a manicure, and maybe even put my feet in one of those tanks of nibbly little fish (although not seen this here). To eat fresh salad vegetables, no rice, noodles or tofu. To have at least 5 cups of proper coffee. Generally, to do things at a slower pace and rest my weary body.

The truth is that many of the things I would like to do now just can’t be squeezed comfortably into the time I have left. Apart from the brilliant train line running up and down the middle of the country, that I took again yesterday to get me here, travel times are tricky.

On my list of interests was to visit the Plain of Jars ( main shot), a UNESCO site. Made up of 2000-plus monolithic jars across 90 locations and 8000 square kilometers (can you imagine?), dating from 500 BCE. The heaviest 10 tonnes and tallest 3 metres, like the Pyramids at Giza, how did they get created and brought to this location, and why? UNESCO says they are burial urns, but there are many more ‘other worldly’ explanations (of course). To add to the ‘intrigue’, only three of the 90 sites can be visited at this time (23 sites remain untouched by archaeologists!), and clearly marked paths must be followed, because the whole plain is scattered with unexploded ordnance. I want to mention this place because it must surely be ‘up there’ with the great ancient sites of Southeast Asia, yet it is so rarely visited. The only problem – the 3-day round-trip to get there!

So, to my B plan. If I can find a place, I will go to the Elephant Conservation Centre in Sainyabuli. Three hours (at least not three days!) Southwest from here, heading towards the Thai border. Apart from seeing my favourite animals, my book informs me of a ” gorgeous sanctuary, accessed by a slow-boat ride across the beautiful Nam Tien Lake”. Now this sounds ‘just the ticket’ for a two day excursion.

Now, where can I get the second of those five coffees?